Sonnenpfeiler route

Description

To be honest, the Sonnenpfeiler route won’t immediately win any beauty prizes. Perhaps a sunny day would be better suited for a fair assessment than a mostly rainy one, however. After all, the sun, which has been painted expertly at the first pitch, shows climbers where they should begin their ascent! So perhaps climbing when everything is wet is a bad idea. But no matter, those capable of rising above the initial difficulties will eventually be greeted by the sun—even on a cloudy day. One small drawback: Even in good weather, the fourth pitch features a traverse that cannot be climbed freely except by experts (A0). In free climbing, you have to be capable of the upper 8th grade, but if you use the bolts then the grade is 6A0.

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2020-06-17 Sonneck Sonnenpfeiler-014-_DSC3425-full_hochzwei (17).jpg

Information

Approach
Starting point: Wegscheid car park, Scheffau (883m)

Take trail 826 past the Wegscheid-Hochalm and the junction with the Wilder-Kaiser-Steig (823), always heading north to the waterfall (rucksack depot).
From here, continue on trail 826 towards the Treffauer mountain until you reach its junction. Next, continue across the gravel cirque to the foot of the Sonneck rock face.

The entrance is directly on the right of the "Kraxengrat" (chimney system) with a painted yellow sun.
Walk time to entry point (guideline)
2,0
Descent
On the marked trail to the west and after a short uphill climb in the direction of the Kopfkraxen mountain (approx. 15 min) follow the signs down the Wiesberg mountain.
At Sonnenstein follow the signs to the waterfall (approx. 1h 30 min). Further descent like approach.

Refreshment stop nearby: Restaurant Jägerwirt
Walking time descent (guideline)
2,75
Equipment
50m twinrope, 15 quickdraws, one set rocks, friends small and medium size